Location: East Africa.

Kenya Tourist Development Corporation

PO Box 42013, Utalii House, Uhuru Highway, Nairobi, Kenya

Tel: (2) 330 820. Fax: (2) 227 815.

Kenya High Commission

45 Portland Place, London W1N 4AS

Tel: (0171) 636 2371/5. Fax: (0171) 323 6717. Telex: 262551. Opening hours: 0900-1300 and 1400-1700 Monday to Friday; visa section: 0930-1230 and 1400-1530.

Kenya National Tourist Office

25 Brook's Mews, off Davies Street, Mayfair, London W1Y 1LF

Tel: (0171) 355 3144. Fax: (0171) 495 8656. Opening hours: 0900-1300 and 1400-1700 Monday to Friday.

British High Commission

PO Box 30465, Bruce House, Standard Street, Nairobi, Kenya

Tel: (2) 335 944. Fax: (2) 333 196. Telex: 22219 (a/b UKREP).

Consulates in: Mombasa and Malindi.

Kenya Embassy

2249 R Street, NW, Washington, DC 20008

Tel: (202) 387 6101. Fax: (202) 462 3829.

Kenya Tourist Office

424 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10017

Tel: (212) 486 1300. Fax: (212) 688 0911.

Embassy of the United States of America

PO Box 30137, Unit 64100, corner of Moi and Hailé Sélassie Avenues, Nairobi, Kenya

Tel: (2) 334 141/7. Fax: (2) 340 838. Telex: 22964.

Kenya High Commission

415 Laurier Avenue East, Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6R4

Tel: (613) 563 1773-6. Fax: (613) 233 6599.

Canadian High Commission

PO Box 30481, Comcraft House, Hailé Sélassie Avenue, Nairobi, Kenya

AREA: 580,367 sq km (224,081 sq miles).

POPULATION: 25,905,000 (1989 estimate).

POPULATION DENSITY: 44.7 per sq km.

CAPITAL: Nairobi. Population: 1,346,000 (1989 estimate).

GEOGRAPHY: Kenya shares borders with Ethiopia in the north, Sudan in the northwest, Uganda in the west, Tanzania in the south, and Somalia in the northeast. To the east lies the Indian Ocean. The country is divided into four regions: the arid deserts of the north, the savannah lands of the south, the fertile lowlands along the coast and around the shores of Lake Victoria, and highlands in the west, where the capital Nairobi is situated. Northwest of Nairobi runs the Rift Valley, containing the town of Nakuru and Aberdare National Park, overlooked by Mount Kenya (5200m/17,000ft), which also has a national park. In the far northwest is Lake Turkana (formerly Lake Rudolph). Kenya is a multi-tribal society and has a diverse pattern of tribes; in the north live Somalis and the nomadic Hamitic peoples (Turkana, Rendille and Samburu), in the south and eastern lowlands are Kamba and Masai cattle herders and the Nilotic Luo live around Lake Victoria. The largest tribe is the Kikuyu who live in the central highlands and have traditionally been the dominant tribe in commerce and politics, although this is now shifting. There are many other smaller tribes and although Kenya emphasises nationalism, tribal and cultural identity is evident. A small European settler population remains in the highlands, involved in farming and commerce.

LANGUAGE: Kiswahili is the national and English the official language.

Religion: Mostly traditional, and about 25% Christian, 6% Muslim. Many other local dialects are spoken.

TIME: GMT + 3.

ELECTRICITY: 220/240 volts AC, 50Hz. Plugs are UK-type round 2-pin or flat 3-pin. Bayonet-type light sockets exist in Kenya.

COMMUNICATIONS: Telephone: IDD service is available to the main cities. Country code: 254 (followed by 2 for Nairobi, 11 for Mombasa and 37 for Nakuru). Outgoing international code: 000. Fax: This service is available to the public at the Main Post Office and the Kenyatta International Conference Centre in Nairobi, and at some major hotels in Nairobi and Mombasa. Telex/telegram: Telex facilities are available at Nairobi General Post Office. Most hotels have facilities for their guests. Overseas telegrams can be sent from all post and telegraphic offices and private telephones. Nairobi GPO is open 24 hours. Post: Airmail to Western Europe takes up to four days, and the service is generally reliable. Post offices are open 0800-1700 Monday to Friday; 0800-1300 Saturday. Press: The main dailies (all published in English) include Daily Nation, Kenya Times and The Standard. Nairobi is the main publishing centre.

BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. See the contents for more information.

Regulations and requirements many be subject to change at short notice, and you are advised to contact the appropriate diplomat or consular authority before finalising travel arrangements. Details of these may be found at the head of the countryÌs entry. Any numbers in the chart refer to the footnotes below.

PASSPORTS: Passport valid for 6 months from date of entry required by all.

VISAS: Required by all except:

(a) nationals of the UK;

(b) 1. nationals of Denmark, Finland, Germany, Ireland, Italy, Spain and Sweden (all other EU nationals do require a visa);

(c) nationals of Eritrea, Ethiopia, Fiji, Norway, San Marino, Turkey and Uruguay;

(d) nationals of the following Commonwealth countries: Bahamas, Bangladesh, Barbados, Belize, Botswana, Brunei, Cyprus, Gambia, Ghana, Grenada, Jamaica, Kiribati, Lesotho, Malawi, Malaysia, Maldives, Malta, Mauritius, Namibia, Nauru, Papua New Guinea, St Kitts & Nevis, St Lucia, St Vincent & the Grenadines, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Africa (for visits of less than 30 days), Swaziland, Tanzania, Tonga, Trinidad & Tobago, Tuvalu, Uganda, Vanuatu, Western Samoa, Zambia and Zimbabwe;

(e) those visitors travelling to a third destination and holding valid onward or return tickets provided they do not leave the airport.

Note: Travellers needing a visa are advised to acquire one before their journey; a visitor's pass is available to those without a visa on arrival, but a deposit of £250 refundable upon departure may be required before a pass is issued. A return or onward air ticket to a country outside East Africa is required for all nationals with visas.

Types of visa: Entry and Transit. Cost - £25 for most nationals for standard visas.

Validity: Up to 3 months. Renewals or extensions can be made at Immigration in Nyayo House, Uhuru Highway, Nairobi.

Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy or High Commission). For addresses, see top of entry.

Application requirements: (a) Valid passport. (b) Completed application form. (c) Fee. (d) 1 passport-size photo.

Working days required: Consult Embassy or High Commission. The length of time it takes to process the application depends on whether or not it has to be referred to Nairobi; otherwise 24 hours.

Currency: Kenyan Shilling (KSh) = 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of KSh1000, 500, 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10. Coins are in denominations of KSh10, 5 and 1, and 50, 10 and 5 cents.

Currency exchange: Currency can be exchanged at the major banks. Black market transactions are common, but inadvisable.

Credit cards: Access/Mastercard, American Express, Diners Club and Visa are all widely accepted. Check with your credit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available.

Travellers cheques: These can be changed at banks.

Note: Tanzanian and Ugandan currencies are only negotiable if in the form of travellers cheques.

Currency restrictions: The import and export of local currency is prohibited. Free import of foreign currency is allowed provided it is declared. Foreign currency may be exported up to either the equivalent of KhS5000 or the amount declared on arrival. There is no limit placed on travellers cheques and letters of credit.

The following goods may be imported into Kenya by passengers over 16 years of age without incurring customs duty:

200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 225g of tobacco; 1 bottle of spirits or wine; 1 pint of perfume.

Jan 1 '97 New Year's Day. Feb 9 Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan). Mar 28 Good Friday. Mar 31 Easter Monday. May 1 Labour Day. Jun 1 Madaraka Day. Oct 20 Kenyatta Day. Dec 12 Jamhuri Day. Dec 25-26 Christmas. Jan 1 '98 New Year's Day. Jan 29 Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan). Apr 10 Good Friday. Apr 13 Easter Monday.

Regulations and requirements may be subject to change at short notice, and you are advised to contact your doctor well in advance of your intended date of departure. Any numbers in the chart refer to the footnotes below.

Special Certificate

[1]: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from travellers over one year of age arriving from infected areas; those countries formerly classified as endemic zones are considered to be still infected by the Kenyan authorities. Travellers arriving from non-endemic zones should note that vaccination is strongly recommended for travel outside the urban areas, even if an outbreak of the disease has not been reported and they would normally not require a vaccination certificate to enter the country.

[2]: Following WHO guidelines issued in 1973, a cholera vaccination certificate is no longer a condition of entry to Kenya. However, cholera is a serious risk in this country and precautions are essential. Up-to-date advice should be sought before deciding whether these precautions should include vaccination, as medical opinion is divided over its effectiveness. See the contents for theHealth section.

[3]: Malaria risk exists throughout the year in the whole country. There is usually less risk in Nairobi and in the highlands (above 2500m/8200ft) of the Central, Rift Valley, Eastern Nyanza and Western Provinces. The predominant falciparum strain has been reported as highly resistant to chloroquine and resistant to sulfadoxine/pyrimethamine.

[4]: Mains water is normally chlorinated, and whilst relatively safe may cause mild abdominal upsets. Bottled water is available and is advised for the first few weeks of the stay. Drinking water outside main cities and towns is likely to be contaminated and sterilisation is considered essential. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Local meat, poultry, seafood, fruit and vegetables are generally considered safe to eat.

Meningitis is a risk depending on the area visited and time of year.

Bilharzia (schistosomiasis) is present. Avoid swimming and paddling in fresh water. Swimming pools which are well-chlorinated and maintained are safe.

Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten abroad, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the contents for theHealth section.

Note: There is a risk of contracting AIDS if the necessary precautions are not taken. It is advisable to take a kit of sterilised needles for any possible injections needed.

AIR: Kenya's national airline is Kenya Airways (KQ).

For free advice on air travel, call the Air Travel Advisory Bureau in the UK on (0171) 636 5000 (London) or (0161) 832 2000 (Manchester).

Approximate flight times: From Nairobi to London is 8 hours; to New York is 17 hours 30 minutes; to Los Angeles is 20 hours; to Singapore is 13 hours and to Sydney is 25 hours.

International airports: Nairobi (NBO) (Jomo Kenyatta International) is 13km (8 miles) southeast of the city. Bus no. 34 runs every 30 minutes from 0630-2100 (travel time - 30 minutes). Taxis are also available to the city. Airport facilities include an outgoing duty-free shop, 24-hour bank/bureau de change, post office (0800-1700 Monday to Friday), restaurant/bar and car hire from a range of international companies.

Mombasa (MBA) (Moi International) is 13km (8 miles) west of the city. There is a regular bus service by Kenya Airways to their city centre office in Mombasa (travel time - 15 minutes). Taxis are available. Airport facilities include an outgoing duty-free shop, bank (0500-1400), restaurant/bar, 24-hour tourist information and car hire from a range of international companies.

Note: Immigration procedures in Kenyan airports are likely to be extremely slow, so it is advisable to arrive early.

Departure tax: US$20.

SEA/LAKE: A regular international passenger service operates between Mombasa, the Seychelles and Bombay. Short-distance ships sail between Mombasa, Dar-es-Salaam and Zanzibar. The ports in the Lake Victoria passenger service include Port Victoria/Kisumu, Homa Bay and Mfangano. Passenger and cruise lines that run to Kenya are as follows: TFC Tours, Polish Ocean, Hellenic Lines (from the USA and Red Sea), Moore/McCormack (USA), Lykes Lines and Norwegian American.

Ferries in Lake Victoria connect Kisumu in Kenya to Mwanza, Musoma and Bukoba in Tanzania. Fares are paid for in the port of embarkation currency. It is also possible to get ferries from Mombasa to Pemba and Zanzibar in Tanzania, and also to Chiamboni in Somalia. Enquire locally for details.

RAIL: The through train services to Uganda and Tanzania are currently suspended, but a thrice-weekly train runs to the frontier from where there are onward connections by taxi.

ROAD: Kenya can be entered by road from all neighbouring countries, although some routes may be inadvisable due to uncertain political conditions. Check with the Foreign Office if in doubt.

Travel from Somalia is generally via Liboi, where a change of bus will be required. The route from Sudan is currently not recommended due to the civil war in the south. The main crossing points from Tanzania are at Namanga and Lunga Lunga, with smaller posts at Isebania and Taveta. Some direct coach services operate. From Uganda there are crossing points at Malaba and Buisa. Note that at Malaba the Kenyan and Ugandan customs posts are about 1km (0.6 miles) apart and no transport between them is available. For all road frontier crossings, it is advisable to contact the Kenya AA (PO Box 40087, Nairobi) prior to departure from country of origin for up-to-date information concerning insurance requirements and conditions.

AIR: Kenya Airways operates an extensive network of flights, which includes scheduled services to Mombasa, Malindi, Lamu Island, Kisumu (on the shore of Lake Victoria) and inclusive tours to the game parks and the coast from Nairobi. There are also private airlines such as Caspair operating light aircraft to small air strips. Planes can also be chartered and are useful for transportation into game parks.

Departure tax: KSh100 on all domestic flights.

SEA: Local ferries run between Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu. For details, contact local authorities and tour operators.

RAIL: Kenya Railways Corporation runs passenger trains between Mombasa and Nairobi; trains generally leave in the evening and arrive the following morning after a journey of about 13-14 hours. There are also branches connecting Taveta and Kisumu to the passenger network. There is a daily train in each direction on the Nairobi-Kisumu route, and also an overnight service (travel time - approx. 14 hours). Trains are sometimes delayed, but most of the rolling stock is modern and comfortable, and most trains have restaurant cars. There are three classes: first class is excellent, with 2-berth compartments, wardrobe, etc; second class is more basic but comfortable; third is basic. The dining-car service on the Nairobi-Mombasa route is very highly regarded. Sleeping compartments should be booked in advance. Children under 3 years of age travel free. Children between 3-15 years of age pay half-fare.

ROAD: Traffic drives on the left. All major roads are now tarred and many of the others have been improved, particularly in the southwest, although vast areas of the north still suffer from very poor communications. Care should be taken when leaving trunk roads as the surfaces of the lesser roads vary greatly in quality, particularly during the rainy season. There are petrol stations on most highways. The Kilifi Bridge linking Mombasa to Malindi has opened, serving as an alternative to the Kilifi ferry, and easing traffic flows to the northern circuit. Bus: There is a network of regular buses and shared minibuses (Matatu); the fares do not vary greatly, but buses tend to be the safer method of transport. All bus companies are privately run. In some towns the different bus services and the Matatu share the same terminus. Taxi: Kenya is very well served by long-distance taxis, carrying up to seven passengers. The best services are between the capital and Mombasa and Nakuru. Taxis and minibuses are a convenient method of travel on the coast. Car hire: Self-drive and chauffeur-driven cars may be hired from a number of travel agents in Nairobi, Mombasa and Malindi. This can be expensive, and rates - particularly the mileage charges - can vary a good deal. Only 4-wheel-drive cars should be considered. Tours and safaris: Many tour companies in Nairobi offer package arrangements for visits to the game parks and other attractions. Rhino Safaris offer a fleet of over 100 safari vehicles to all the game parks and reserves. Before booking it is very important to know exactly what the all-in price provides. Documentation: UK or foreign driving licences are accepted for up to 90 days, but this must be endorsed in Kenya at a local police station. Visitors bringing in vehicles with registration other than Ugandan or Tanzanian must obtain an 'International Circulation Permit' from the Licensing Officer in Nairobi. This will be issued free of charge on production of a permit of customs duty receipt and a certificate of insurance. An International Driving Permit is strongly recommended, although it is not legally required. For further details, apply to the Registrar of Motor Vehicles in Nairobi.

URBAN: Bus: Nairobi and Mombasa have efficient bus systems. Only single tickets are sold (by conductors). There are also unregulated Matatu, 12- to 25-seat light pick-ups and minibuses. These are often severely overloaded and recklessly driven and therefore should be used with caution. Taxi: Kenatco runs a fleet of taxis and these are usually very reliable. The older yellow-band taxis do not have meters, so fares should be agreed in advance. A 10% tip is expected. Taxis cannot be hailed in the street.

Kisumu 1.05 7.00 14.00

Malindi 0.45 8.00 -

Mombasa 1.00 6.00 14.00

Lamu 1.30 13.00 -

Diani 1.30 7.00 -

Nakuru 0.30 3.00 5.00

Eldoret 1.15 7.00 9.00

Masai Mara 0.30 5.00 -

HOTELS: Many of Nairobi's hotels are up to top international standards, and some of them are very much in the colonial style. Cheaper hotels are also available. Hotel bills must be paid in foreign currency, or in Kenyan Shillings drawn from an external, a shipping or an airline account. Grading: Accommodation in Kenya is divided into groups: town hotels, vacation hotels, lodges and country hotels. Within each group, grading is according to amenities and variety of facilities. The rating is subject to the fulfilment of strict requirements concerning technical equipment, comfort, services, sanitation and security. For further information, contact the Kenya Association of Hotel Keepers & Caterers, PO Box 46406, Nairobi. Tel: (2) 736 642.

CAMPING/CARAVANNING: There are no restrictions on camping in Kenya. Visitors should be aware that camping in remote regions can be dangerous due to wild animals and to shifta (armed bandits); the latter are a hazard particularly in the far north. A list of licensed tented camps is available from the Tourist Office or the press section of the High Commission.

Nairobi: The 'Green City in the Sun' is an attractive city with wide tree-lined streets and spacious parkland suburbs. Its pleasant nature together with judicious investment in facilities such as the Kenyatta Conference Centre have made Nairobi an important centre for international business and conference activities. However, despite the capital's appearance, urban crime (as in most big cities) is on the increase and visitors are advised to take such precautions as they would take in any other cosmopolitan centre in the world (this would include avoiding certain areas, especially at night - travellers are advised against walking alone through Uhuru Park at any time). There is a full range of shopping opportunities, from purpose-built American-style malls to rickety African markets, and a variety of restaurants and nightclubs. The African Heritage Café, Banda Street, serves traditional African meals. The Thorn Tree Café at the New Stanley Hotel is an open-air café and a good place to meet fellow visitors. The New Supreme and Minar serve top-quality Indian food and there is a good choice of international food at all hotels. The Carnivore serves barbecued wild game. There are open-air swimming pools at the Serena, Boulevard and Jacaranda hotels - non-residents may pay to swim. Other places of interest in or near Nairobi include: Bomas of Kenya, a short distance outside the city centre, where displays of traditional dancing are put on for visitors; Kenya National Museum with its particularly good ethnographic exhibits; Snake Park, opposite the museum, houses snakes indigenous to East Africa and a few from other parts of the world; adjacent to the Snake Park is a collection of traditional mud and thatch huts and granaries containing tools characteristic of different tribes. Nairobi National Park is just 8km (5 miles) from Nairobi city centre yet still seems a savage and lonely place during the week (carloads of city-dwellers invade at the weekend). It was Kenya's first national park and today still looks much as it did in the early photographs - wild, undulating pasture dotted with every kind of East African plain-dwelling animal except elephants. Visits can be arranged through the Hilton Hotel. At the gates to the park is the Animal Orphanage where young, sick and wounded animals are cared for.

Lake Naivasha is an hour's drive from the capital. It is known for the abundance and variety of its birdlife and spectacular views. There are opportunities for rock climbing.

Nanyuki, at the foot of Mount Kenya, provides a starting point both for climbers and safaris.

Nakuru is situated in the Rift Valley about 230km (140 miles) west of Nairobi. It has the feel of a frontier town. Lake Nakuru National Park was once said to be home to half the world's total population of pink flamingoes, and even today visitors in winter will encounter these ungainly birds in large numbers. Many less spectacular birds can also be seen. Baboons are often to be seen on the lake's western cliffs. Menengai Crater, an extinct volcano, stands nearby. 50km (30 miles) to the north of Nakuru, along a fairly good road, is Lake Baringo, smaller than Lake Nakuru, but with the same variety of birdlife. There is a permanent tented camp on the island at its centre, where boats may be hired to cruise through the reeds at the lake's northern end, a habitat rich in water fowl, egrets, giant herons and fishing eagles.

Mombasa: The second largest city in Kenya, 500km (300 miles) from Nairobi. Until the ascendancy of the Western powers in the Indian Ocean, Mombasa was second only to Zanzibar as a centre for trade with Arabia, India and the Far East - slaves and ivory were exchanged for spices and small goods, and later for gold dollars. Mombasa is still an important port, prospering from its position at the head of the only railway into the Kenyan interior, but visitors are likely to find the rakish grey forms of foreign warships to be more typical of modern Mombasa than the flotillas of Arab dhows that still collect in the Old Harbour. Mombasa is the headquarters for Kenya's coastal tourist trade, but has none of the fine beaches to be found to the north and south. There are, however, several places of interest: the Old Town retains a strongly Arab flavour, with narrow, crowded streets and street vendors selling all manner of local and imported craftwork; Fort Jesus, built by the Portuguese in 1593 and taken by the Omani Arabs in 1698 after a 33-month seige, is now a museum and worth visiting (0830-1830 every day of the year); Biashara Street is probably the best place to go to buy kikoi and khanga cloths; the Old Harbour is an interesting place for early morning and late afternoon strolls, and is often filled with sailing dhows from the Yemen and Persian Gulf; The Ivory Room off Treasury Square is now permanently closed. The Tourist Office is on Moi Avenue near the Giant Tusks (0800-1200 and 1400-1630 Monday to Friday; 0800-1200 Saturday). Staff are very helpful.

Malindi, 125km (80 miles) north of Mombasa, contains the Malindi and Watamu Marine National Parks where one can see fish through a glass-bottomed boat or take part in snorkelling or skindiving. Close to Watamu is a ruined city (now the Gedi National Park) which dates from the 13th century and is very well preserved. The little village of Mambrui, north of Malindi, is also worth a visit.

Lamu Island, 200km (125 miles) north of Malindi, is an exceptionally beautiful place with fine, white sandy beaches, sailing dhows and a fascinating town. No motorised vehicles are allowed on the island and the streets are so narrow that donkeys and hand-carts are the only vehicles that can negotiate them. There are many mosques and fine old Arab houses with impressive carved wooden doors. Other attractions in the city include the Hindu Temple in Mwagogo Road, off Treasury Square, and the bazaars. Fishing trips may be taken by dhow and day trips to the 14th- and 15th-century ruins on the nearby islands of Pate and Manda can be arranged with local boat owners. On the Prophet's Birthday there is a week-long festival, with dancing, singing and other celebrations. Many Muslims come to Lamu from all along the coast to enjoy this celebration. The best time to visit the island is outside the main tourist season (April-November).

The South Coast, protected by its coral reef, is famous for its beautiful and safe beaches. Resorts include Likoni, Tiwi, Diani Beach and Shimoni.

Kenya's national parks and game reserves have long been famous for their variety and wealth of flora and fauna. That they have remained Africa's foremost areas of accessible wilderness is due to a vigorous campaign of preservation and management mounted since the 1960s with increasing success by the Kenyan government. Whilst drought and overgrazing have destroyed some regions and there is still conflict between tribal interests and wildlife preservation, the Government fully recognises that Kenya's future prosperity may depend on maintaining its remarkable natural heritage.

One-tenth of all land in Kenya is designated as national parkland. Forty parks and reserves cover all habitats from desert to mountain forest, and there are even two marine parks in the Indian Ocean. Tourist facilities are extremely good. There are many organised safaris, but those with the time and money may choose to hire their own vehicle and camping equipment. Day trips by balloon are becoming a very popular way to view game, especially in the Masai Mara Game Reserve, and it is advisable to book well in advance.

Some smaller parks are described in the preceding sections covering the Central Highlands and the Coast. The following is a selection of the better-known parks.

Aberdare National Park: A densely wooded mountain range rising to over 4000m (13,000ft), adjacent to Mount Kenya. It is possible to see elephants, rhinos, rare forest antelopes such as the bongo and dik-dik, leopards, lions and monkeys. However, the thick vegetation and misty alpine climate hides most wildlife from the inexpert observer, the exceptions being giant forest pigs, baboons and buffaloes, which often sleep or feed beside the many dirt tracks. Most visitors prefer to watch for animals from the comfort of the park's two lodges, Treetops and the Ark, both built on platforms overlooking clearings which are floodlit at night. On the higher slopes, giant alpine plants sprout from an almost perpetual fog. There are many waterfalls, the greatest being Guru Falls which drops over 300m (1000ft).

Amboseli National Park: A small park by Kenyan standards, covering just under 400 sq km (155 sq miles) at the centre of the border with Tanzania, 220km (140 miles) from Nairobi. The fine view it affords of snow-capped Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest mountain (5895m/19,340ft), brings many visitors, but the park itself has seen better days. The once-lush savannah is now largely a dust-bowl and most animals have retreated into areas of scrub forest and marshland.

Masai Mara National Reserve: 390km (240 miles) from Nairobi in the southwest corner of the country, this reserve is a slice of Africa as seen by Hollywood - a vast rolling plain beneath the Mara escarpment striped black once a year by millions of wildebeeste and zebra migrating north from the Serengeti plains in neighbouring Tanzania. Continually harried by predators, thick columns of exhausted animals eventually converge at one spot on the Mara River and wait nervously to cross. A panic anywhere within the herd is transmitted flank-to-flank until it reaches those by the river, who fall 6m (20ft) into water already bloodied and bobbing with bloated carcasses. The inelegant beasts must swim past crocodiles, hippos and flapping vultures to join the sparse but growing herd on the other side. The stench of corruption is unimaginable and this spectacle is probable best seen from one of three balloons operating from Grosvenor's Camp. During the migration season (July/August), the reserve's resident lions lounge prominently in the sun, fat and seemingly placid, and apparently indifferent to tourists. Other animals to be seen, at any time of the year, include elephants, cheetahs, baboons, gazelles, giraffes, jackals, hyenas, water buffaloes, ostriches and several types of antelope. There are 13 tented camps and two lodges (Mara Serena Lodge and Keekorok Lodge) in the reserve. Grosvenor's Camp, with its own airstrip, is the largest and best-equipped. A luxury hotel stands on the escarpment just outside the reserve and gives fine views over the plain. Masai tribespeople live on the reserve's fringes. They are often keen to sell traditional bead necklaces and decorated gourds to tourists, or to pose for tourist cameras in return for a small fee.

Meru National Park: 400km (250 miles) from Nairobi, this features Kenya's only colony of white rhinos. It remains one of the more unspoilt parks.

Mount Kenya National Park: 600 sq km (230 sq miles) of forest and bare rock straddling the equator, all above 1800m (6000ft), rising to over 5000m (17,000ft) in the year-round snow fields at the mountain's peak. The ascent is very beautiful and may be climbed without special equipment, but it is advisable to take time so as to avoid altitude sickness. Climbers should be accompanied by a guide. Porters are also available and there are huts to stay in along the way. Plenty of warm clothes are required as well as one's own food supplies. A Rockclimber's Guide to Mount Kenya and Mount Kilimanjaro can be bought from the Mountain Club of Kenya, PO Box 45741, Nairobi (tel: (2) 501 747). The mountain is one of the last haunts of the black leopard and the black and white colobus monkey. Lord Baden-Powell is buried nearby in Nyeri.

Samburu Game Park: An area of semi-desert halfway between Nairobi and Lake Turkana that provides a rare chance to see the oryx, gerenuk, reticulated giraffe and Grevy's zebra. Ostriches and elephants are easily spotted in this open habitat. There are two lodges, Samburu Lodge and River Lodge, both of which hang out bait to attract leopards for the guests to study whilst sitting at the bar. The park takes its name from the Samburu people, distantly related to the Masai.

Tsavo National Park: At 21,000 sq km (8,000 sq miles), it is Kenya's largest park by far, but much of it is closed to the public. Despite a drastic fall in the elephant population in the 1970s (caused by over-stocking), there are still many large herds. Much of the land is open savannah and bush woodland inhabited by buffaloes, a few rhinos, lions, antelopes, gazelles, giraffes and zebras. Crocodiles and hippos can be seen at Mzima Springs in the west of the park.

FOOD & DRINK: Kenya's national dishes appear on most hotel menus. The country's beef, chicken, lamb and pork are outstandingly good, as are the wide variety of tropical fruits. Local trout, Nile perch and lobster, shrimps and Mombasa oysters are included on menus in season. Indian and Middle Eastern food is available in most areas. Some game-park lodges serve game, including buffalo steaks marinaded in local liqueurs and berries, often garnished with wild honey and cream. Most Kenyans eat maize, beans and maize meal. At the small 'hotelis', chai (tea boiled with milk and sugar) and mandazi (doughnuts) are popular. There is a wide range of restaurants in Nairobi and Mombasa, otherwise hotels in smaller towns offer restaurant service. Drink: Locally brewed beer (Tusker and White Cap) and bottled sodas may be found throughout the country. Kenya Cane (spirit distilled from sugar cane) and Kenya Gold (a coffee liqueur) are produced in Kenya. Traditional beer made with honey (uki) and locally made spirit distilled from maize (changaa) may sometimes be found.

NIGHTLIFE: Most of the major hotels in Nairobi and the tourist resorts have dancing with live bands or discotheques each evening. There are also a few nightclubs with an African flavour. There is a large selection of cinemas in Nairobi which show mainly American, British and European films.

SHOPPING: Khanga, kitenge and kikoi cloths may be bought in markets and the Bishara Streets of Nairobi and Mombasa. There is a particularly good cooperative shop in Machakos which sells kiondos, bags dyed with natural dyes and with strong leather straps. Makonde carvings are sold throughout the country, and young Kamba and Masai men sell carvings and necklaces on the beaches of the south coast. Shopping hours: 0830-1230 and 1400-1730 Monday to Saturday. Note: The sale of souvenirs made of wildlife skins (this includes reptiles) is forbidden.

SPORT: Tennis, squash, bowls, horseriding and polo are all popular sports. Kenya also has good athletics facilities and the Kenyans have a fine record in world competitions. Sports clubs accept visitors. Watersports: Sailing, water-skiing, swimming and surfing are popular in the coastal resorts both north and south of Mombasa; these include Malindi, Nyali, Bamburi, Shanzu, Kikambala and Kilifi. These resorts have fine sandy beaches and there are several coral reefs. Trout fishing in the lakes is particularly good between November and March.

special events: The following is a selection of special events celebrated annually in Kenya. For a complete list, contact the Tourist Office.

Apr (Easter Period) Kenya Safari Rally. Sep Mombasa National Show.

ECONOMY: The Kenyan economy is largely agricultural: 75% of the population work on the land, contributing around 30% of national output. The main cash crops are tea and coffee, although pyrethrum, sisal, sugar and cotton are also important. Kenya is one of the few African countries with a significant dairy industry. There is a very small mining sector, and hydro-electric plants meet 80% of the country's energy requirements. The remainder comes from imported oil, which is also used for one of the country's principal industries, the manufacture of petroleum-based products such as plastic and chemicals. Kenya, which has one of Africa's largest manufacturing sectors, also produces cement, paper, drinks, tobacco, textiles, rubber and metal products, ceramics, and electrical and transport equipment. In the service sector, tourism is the largest industry and the country's principal source of foreign exchange. Like many African countries, Kenya has experienced the rigours of an IMF-imposed Structural Adjustment programme in exchange for large-scale, long-term financial assistance. Differences over political reform with major aid donors have, in the last few years, led to significant cuts in Kenya's aid receipts. The UK is Kenya's major trading partner, followed by Germany, Japan and the United Arab Emirates. In Africa, Uganda, is Kenya's most important export market and source of imports.

Business: Lightweight suits are recommended for all occasions. Prior appointments are necessary. Although Kiswahili is the national language, English is the official language and is widely spoken. Office hours: 0800-1300 and 1400-1700 Monday to Friday. In Mombasa, offices usually open and close half an hour earlier.

Commercial information: The following organisations can offer advice: Kenya National Chamber of Commerce and Industry, PO Box 47024, Ufanisi House, Hailé Sélassie Avenue, Nairobi. Tel: (2) 334 413; or

Investment Promotion Centre, PO Box 55704, 8th Floor, National Bank Building, Harambee Avenue, Nairobi. Tel: (2) 221 401. Fax: (2) 336 663. Telex: 25460.

History: Excavations in Kenya suggest that the region is the cradle of humanity, the home some 3.25 million years ago of Homo habilis, from whom Homo sapiens descended. What is certain is that, in more recent times, Kenya was the settling place of a huge number of tribes from all over the continent, with a long history of migration, settlement and conflict. During the following centuries, the region became prosperous on the profits of trade, and also as an entrepôt for commerce from the Indian Ocean. The Portuguese arrived in the early 16th century, and having wrested control of the area's trade from the Arabs, absorbed Kenya into their commercial empire. By 1720 they had been driven out by the Arabs, and for the next two centuries the region was largely ruled by Omani Dynasties from Arabia. During the 1820s, a local power struggle led to the British being invited into the region by the Mazrui Dynasty, and by the middle of the century both the British and the Germans were competing for control of the coast and its hinterland during the second great colonial period. By the 1890s the threat of the Masai tribesmen had, by a mixture of diplomacy and war, largely been neutralised, and the British were able to penetrate into the highlands. The Mombasa to Uganda railway line was constructed at this time, and Nairobi owes its present importance to the fact that it was a convenient staging point on the edge of the highlands. It soon became the headquarters of the British administration. By the early 20th century, the fertile lands to the north were attracting a large number of white settlers led by Lord Delamere who came into conflict with the local population. Many tribes, such as the Masai and the Kikuyu, were displaced. The movement for territorial, economic and political rights soon found an able leader in Jomo Kenyatta, who spent much of the 1930s and 1940s in Europe pressing the case for his cause. After World War II, this gathered pace. The fight for independence was a difficult and sometimes bloody affair, particularly the 3-year guerrilla war mounted during the 1950s by the nationalist Land Freedom Army (better known as the Mau Mau) against the British colonial authorities. Kenya was nonetheless an early beneficiary of Harold Macmillan's 'winds of change' policy towards Africa. The main nationalist party, the Kenyan African National Union (KANU), led by Kenyatta, took power on Independence Day in December 1963, despite British efforts to sponsor an alternative. Kenyan politics were subsequently dominated by the struggle between moderate and radical factions within the ruling KANU party. The moderates, led by Tom Mboya (assassinated in 1969) and Kenyatta's eventual successor, Daniel Arap Moi, consistently held the upper hand. Opposition parties were banned outright in 1982 after an attempted coup which showed signs of having been contrived. In recent years, the Kenyan government has come under increasing pressure, particularly from its Western aid donors, to liberalise the political regime preparatory to introducing multi-party democracy. The main opposition movement, the Forum for the Restoration of Democracy (FORD) posed a major threat to Moi's hold on power until an irretrievable split. The two factions, FORD-Kenya, led by ex-Vice President Oginga Odinga (and then Michael Wamalwa Kijana), and FORD-Asili, headed by former cabinet minister Kenneth Matiba, had their opportunity before the voters on December 29, 1992. Although both factions had a natural constituency in the large Kikuyu and Luo tribes who had been variously alienated by the Kalenjin-dominated Moi government, the split proved fatal for the opposition. KANU took 100 of the 188 National Assembly seats (FORD-Kenya and FORD-Asili gained 31 each) and Moi came out on top of the simultaneous presidential poll with 36% of the vote. Despite a reasonably solid mandate, the Moi government has continued to react ferociously to opposition. The most recent target is a new political movement established by the renowned anthropologist Richard Leakey. Called Safina, the new party has been refused registration by the government, while its offices and party workers have been attacked. In truth, Safina's prospects are strictly limited by the fact that Leakey is white. The government's reaction to Safina and its financial conduct, have led once again, to a suspension of some Western aid to Kenya.

The coastal areas are tropical, but tempered by monsoon winds. The lowlands are hot but mainly dry, while the highlands are more temperate with four seasons. Nairobi has a very pleasant climate throughout the year due to its altitude. Near Lake Victoria the temperatures are much higher and rainfall can be heavy.